Bmw e90 door latch replacement e91, e92, e93 pelican parts diy maintenance article trichomoniasis signs and symptoms

Comments: BMW e90 drivers door stuck closed after 1000 or more times pulling handle locking opening with key the door opened. I changed the door latch tested before closing the door all ok. Closed door and now will not open at all. The door looks like it opens when opening with central locking but doesn’t open. Does both front latches have to be changed? Why?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it was working prior to latch replacement, no. If you replaced one front latch, it has to be the same version as the passenger side. If not they may not work correctly. Confirm the part numbers are from the same version (revision) latch. – Nick at Pelican Parts

Comments: Help! My 323 e90 rear right door lock started by making a whizzing sound without unlocking and after some days it completely went off and cannot lock nor unlock both by remote and manually.


This is now shifting to the driver’s door which has started the whizzing sound and does not lock or unlock except manually by pulling the door opening handle. Help, what should I do?

Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe the tool centers the latch onto the door and hols it in place. To replace the latch as shown in article, follow the steps described. If you need more info on the procedure with the tool. look to BMW’s factory repair info. – Nick at Pelican Parts

Comments: I have an 07 E91. All of my lock pins EXEPT the drivers door are stuck in the unlocked/up position. Aside from that the doors all function properly with the remote and the lock button on the dash. You can’t even push them down by hand. Dealer says I have a code for front passenger regulator. Will changing the front passenger lock regulator somehow fix this for all 3 doors? Again all doors function properly but the pins no longer go up and down??

Comments: I have a 2008 328i Sedan E90 and ran into the problem of my driver door being stuck shut. After taking off the trim/door panel, and manually depressing the Bowden cables on the inside and outside the door would still not open. The lock and unlock electrical action worked fine. After some work, I got it open by prying the actuator back and opening the inside door Bowden cable lever at the same time. Anyways, I believe the actuator gears are messed up so I’m going to replace the actuator on the driver door, but should I also replace the Bowden cables? Any help, tips or advice is appreciated.

Comments: Ok, so got the door lock actuator replaced on the front driver’s door. Now we can’t get the lock assemble to go back in. The door panel is off, the door lock cable is in place but it seems to be blocking the insertion of the door lock from the outside. Does this sound right?

Comments: I’ve been trying to track down a specific problem and I’m starting to suspect the actuator. I finally got the door open but I had to remove the latch cable from the holders in figure 67. Once I did that i could manually press the holder in figure 7 to open the door. Once that was done I could attach the cable and open the door with any of the methods normally used. BUT…if I lock the door by any means, I cannot open the door again until I remove the cable and repeat the process.

Comments: I suspect the latch is broken in the locked position. The actuator seems to be functioning and I’ve already tried to move it manually from inside the door. The door won’t open and I can’t get to the screws to remove the latch. Is there another way to get to the latch from the back side?

Car doors locks and unlocks as expected with remote and button on dash board. But the left passenger door won’t unlock using internal door handle. Door button does not stay up when handle is pulled once as it used to. When unlocked with remote or unlock button on dashboard, button rattles up and down and stays down. Door locks and unlocks normally though. What might be the issue?

Comments: I can’t seem to get the handle to detach from the actuator. I am 3 days into this Problem after problem and I don’t understand why no one has mentioned the handle detaching from the actuator. I don’t know how to get it loose, much less how to reattach it later. I have a 2009 335i sedan. Driver door actuator is unhooked except dangling from the handle attachment. I doubt I’ll own another BMW after this.

Comments: Thanks for the tutorial. Latch comes out not easily, but it does if flipped vertically and then horizontally. It is tight, but possible. Then it is possible to take it under window rail long flat side first. Also, on original latch there was a white plastic guide where the lock mechanism interacts with actuator. In my case it needed to be moved from old to new. In addition, BEFORE you insert new latch inside the door, check if you can screww the three screws in it. Mine didn’t have thread and I had to force the screws first time. It is MUCH easier to do, when the latch is outside.

Comments: this video seemed incomplete ..after step8 was completed there was NO ROOM to pull out the door lock actuator . The window regulator rail was in the way as was a foam piece at the bottom corner of the door.After taking the rear window regulator rail out preceded by taking the window out, then the foam piece came out easily AND THEN the lock actuator had plant of room to take out of the door .