Mercedes-benz w210 parking brake replacement (1996-03) e320, e420 pelican parts diy maintenance article ear and jaw pain after tooth extraction

If your parking brake is not functioning properly, then perhaps it’s time to replace your parking brake shoes. The parking brake shoes can only be inspected after the removal of the rear brake calipers and discs. Refer to our article on replacing rear brakes for more info. You’ll need to take the tension off the inner parking brake shoes in order to remove the rear brake disc. To access the adjusting screw, you’ll need to rotate the disc until one of the holes for the lug bolts is at 10 o’clock. If you shine a light inside, you should be able to see the screw inside the hole. You’ll need to turn the adjuster screw counter-clockwise to lessen the tension on the two brake shoes. Once the tension has been relieved, you should be able to pull the brake disc off.

engage. Now you can visually inspect the shoes for wear.

The shoes should have some brake lining along the top, and should not have any heavy grooves cut into them. Compare your worn parking brake shoes to the ones pictured in this article to determine if you need to replace yours.

You’ll now see the whole parking brake assembly. At the top of the assembly, remove the small parking brake adjuster by prying it out from between the upper and lower parking brake shoe. Make sure that the parking brake handle is all the way down for this procedure. Be careful while you are performing this removal, as the adjuster is spring loaded and it may fly out when you are prying the shoes apart. Once the adjuster screw is out, remove the upper retaining spring. It can be difficult to remove this spring, so I recommended you just pry the ears of the spring out to release it from the shoes. You’ll be replacing this spring anyway, so it doesn’t matter if it gets damaged. Again, be careful of the spring, as it may fly off unexpectedly. Make sure that you wear safety glasses during this entire procedure.

Next remove the two brake shoe retaining springs. These can be quite tricky to get out. The idea is to press the spring in as far as possible then turn the spring. This will unlatch it from the backing plate. Unfortunately it sounds easier than it is. Just take your time. Once released, you can simply pull the old shoes off the expanding frame at the bottom. Once removed, you’ll see how the lower retaining spring holds the brake shoes together at the bottom.

Now take the new brake shoes and locate the slotted end on each one. These slots fit into the ears on the expanding frame. You’ll want to attach the lower retaining spring first between the two shoes, and then carefully work it over the hub assembly. Fit one of the slotted ends into the expanding frame, then use a screwdriver to pry the other slotted end over the expanding frame and into place. Now at the top of the shoes, fit the upper retaining spring between the two shoes. This can be a little tricky. I recommend using a pair of needle nose pliers to help do this. Once the spring is fitted, spread the shoes apart and install the adjuster screw.

Now comes the hardest part of the job, getting the shoe retaining springs in place. You’ll need to hook the spring in just such a way that you can turn the spring as you push it inwards, thus locking the spring to the backing plate. I like to rotate the hub until a lug bolt hole lines up with the outside of the spring and then push the spring inwards with a screwdriver. Once both shoe retaining springs are in, fit the brake disc over the whole assembly and secure it with a new retaining screw. Rotate the disc so you can access the adjuster screw inside with a small screwdriver and rotate the screw clockwise to increase the tension on the shoes. From time to time, pull the screwdriver out and check if you can still turn the disc. You’ll want to keep increasing tension until you can’t turn it anymore. Now back the adjuster off until you can just turn the disc. All you need to do now is bolt the caliper back on, put the brake pads back in and put the wheel back on

Comments: Need a little help, I took apart my ML320’s e-brake and found that one of the parts inside came loose and tore through the springs, retainers and shoes. I cleaned it all up and found the steel part where the cable comes into the hub to be loose. It is held by in place two big rivets and they’re loose. I wander if this is normal when the cable is not providing tension to that part.

Comments: Hi all i am new to this site found you on line i have a clk 230 got some new parking brake shoes fittied them but can not get the disc back on the ajuster is fully in but seem to have a a gap ither side were the the cable is fitted to the release arm have tried every thing any advice

Comments: For anyone struggling to get the hubs on after fitting new shoes. Check that the grooves in the shoes are wide enough to easily fit over the expanding frame and that the tangs fit comfortably into the adjusters. Some fettling may be required with non original parts. Great site by the way.

Comments: How do I remove the auto adjuster under the seat in my 1996 C280, some one rounded the Allen reset screw on It, I have a replacement,how do I release it from the car, it has 3 cables which are tight, how do I release tension to understand hook the cables from the adjuster and how many min/max clicks should I get from my parking brake

Comments: Just want to provide some info for anyone having trouble getting the rotor back on after replacing the shoes. My star wheel was completely tightened and everything looked correct but I could not fit the rotor over the shoes. I did not intentionally change anything else, song was stumped for a reason. Even though I did not previously adjust the cables leading to the parking brake lever, one of them cables somehow did tighten to the point where the shoes were engaged even with the lever at the dashboard loose. I had to adjust the cable tightness which on the E320, at least, is under the rear seat next to the battery.

Comments: I have a 2002 C320 Wagon that I bought used. Park brake cables were disconnected when I bought it. Great negotiation point by the way. So the other day while driving I had a loud vibration from the right rear. I pulled apart the rear brake assembly and the expanding frame/lock was laying loose in the drum. Is this part available or is a trip to the salvage yard in my future

Comments: I own c180 1999 Mercedes. One day I was driving to work and 10 minutes on the highway at 90kmh I heard squeaking noise. I thought I need new sets of brakes, not long after that I heard a grinding noise very bad. I pulled over to have a look what’s going on could not find anything. Got it towed.came home pull the rotors of and saw the park brake holding spring snapped inside the mechanism attached to the cable chewed in few pieces. I took the whole thing out. Can I get a repair kit or I have to replace the whole unit.

Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are brake shoes and springs you can replace. However, make sure the hold down holes in the backing plate are in good shape and not rusted out. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.

Comments: Hi Nick… yes the shoes are seated correctly, the cables do have the normal tension, I will release the spring tensioner in order to extend the cable since I can’t find an adjuster other than at break assembly. My beast is a 94 S320.

Comments: I bought Bosch rotors from you last October but could not get the parking brake to adjust without catching and had to leave the adjuster at minimum. On checking the brakes yesterday I found that it looks like the machined width of the drum where the shoes sits is not wide enough and consequently when you tighten up the wheel nuts it squeezes the shoe against the step in the machining causing the brakes to bind on the sides. I believe it is a problem with the machining tolerances at manufacture.